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Himalayan Diaries | Conversation with Sujoy Das & Paula Sengupta

August 18, 2017, 10:55 pm
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Artist Paula Sengupta and  photographer Sujoy Das have travelled through the Himalayas for many years.

This exhibition brings together some of Sujoy's small frame works and reproductions of Paula's drawings from her Himalayan diaries.

Using monochrome as a preferred medium Sujoy focuses on patterns, textures, detail and light so often missed while focusing on the giant mountains of the Himalaya.

Equally meticulous attention to detail is seen in Paula’s miniature format drawings, that attempt to record life in the high Himalayas, as also it’s evocative atmosphere and fleeting moments of beauty.

On 23rd August 2017 at 7 pm the duo will be in conversation with artist Chhatrapati Dutta to discuss their work.

The exhibition will continue at The Zs' Precinct until September 2nd 2017 ( 11 am to 7 pm ) excepting Sundays and holidays.


The mane wall at Khumjung Nepal 2012


Monastery at Kagbeni Nepal 2015


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Nikon D850 | A Monster of a Camera

August 24, 2017, 6:54 am
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Nikon-D850

Nikon announced the formal launch of it's new full frame SLR - the 45.7 MP D850 which has specs far advanced than the current series of Nikon cameras. The specs of the D850 are given below and they are very impressive.  The options for three sizes of raw files depending on need, ISO going from 64-25,600, full weather sealing, advanced autofocus system, 7 fps which is commendable with a 45.7 mp sensor, 4K video capability.

However on the flip side is the body weight 915 grams and the price a wopping $3300 body only! Professionals would definitely buy this body instead of the D810 or D750 in the full frame space. It remains to be seen how the Nikon flagships like the D5 fare against this new monster of a camera!

Nikon D850 Specifications

  • Sensor: 45.7 MP FX BSI Sensor, 4.35µ pixel size
  • Sensor Size: 35.9 x 23.9mm
  • Resolution: 8256 x 5504
  • Native ISO Sensitivity: 64-25,600
  • Boost Low ISO Sensitivity: 32
  • Boost High ISO Sensitivity: 51,200-102,400
  • RAW Formats: 45.7 MP (Full Size), 25.6 MP (Medium Size / mRAW), 11.4 MP (Small Size / sRAW)
  • mRAW / sRAW File Support: 12-bit lossless compressed
  • Processor: EXPEED 5
  • Metering System: 181,000-pixel RGB Meter
  • Dust Reduction: Yes
  • Weather Sealing/Protection: Yes
  • Body Build: Full Magnesium Alloy
  • Shutter: 1/8000 – 30 seconds
  • Shutter Durability: 200,000 cycles, self-diagnostic shutter
  • Storage: 1x XQD slot and 1x SD slot (UHS-II compatible)
  • Viewfinder Coverage: 100%
  • Viewfinder Magnification: 0.75x
  • Speed: 7 fps, 9 fps with optional MB-D18 battery grip
  • Built-in Flash: No
  • Autofocus System: Multi-CAM 20K AF sensor
  • AF Sensitivity: -4 EV at the center point
  • AF Detection: Up to f/8 with 15 focus points
  • LCD Screen: touch-enabled 3.2 inch diagonal tilting LCD with 2,359K dots
  • Movie Modes: 4K UHS @ 30 fps max
  • Slow Motion HD Video: Yes
  • Movie Exposure Control: Full
  • Movie Output: MOV, MP4
  • Time Lapse: 4K and 8K Timelapse
  • In-Camera HDR Capability: Yes
  • GPS: Not built-in, requires GP-1 GPS unit
  • WiFi: Built-in
  • Illuminated Buttons: Yes
  • Focus Stacking Feature: Yes
  • Focus Peaking for Stills and Video: Yes
  • Wireless Radio Flash Control: Yes
  • Silent Photography Mode in Live View: Yes
  • Bluetooth: Built-in
  • Battery Type: EN-EN15a
  • Battery Life: 1840 shots (CIPA)
  • USB Standard: 3.0
  • Weight: 915g
  • Dimensions: 146 x 124 x 79mm
  • Price: $3,299.95 MSRP
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Vittorio Sella | Mountain Photographer

August 27, 2017, 7:00 pm
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Jannu from Chunjerma
Today 28th August 2017 is the 158th birth anniversary of the great mountain photographer Vittorio Sella. 


Vittorio Sella  was an Italian photographer and mountaineer, who took photographs of mountains which are regarded as some of the finest ever made. 
Sella was born in Biella in the foothills of the Alps and acquired his interest in Alpinism from his uncle, Quintino Sella. He made a number of significant climbs in the Alps, including the first winter ascents of the Matterhorn and Monte Rosa, and the first winter traverse of Mont Blanc. He took part in several expeditions further afield, including three to the Caucasus (where a peak now bears his name), to Mount Saint Elias in Alaska, to the Rwenzori in Africa, and the 1909 expedition to K2 and the Karakoram. The latter three expeditions were in the company of Luigi Amedeo, Duke of the Abruzzi. Sella continued to climb into his old age, and made his last attempt on the Matterhorn at seventy six. The attempt failed when one of his guides was injured in an accident.
The high quality of Sella's photography was in part due to his use of 30×40 cm photographic plates, in spite of the difficulty of carrying bulky and fragile equipment into remote places. He had to invent equipment, including modified pack saddles and rucksacks, to allow these particularly large glass plates to be transported safely. His photographs were widely published and exhibited, and highly praised; Ansel Adams, who saw thirty-one that Sella had presented to the US Sierra Club, said they inspired "a definitely religious awe". Many of the photographs he took were of mountains which had not been previously recorded and so have historical as well as artistic significance; for example by recording the retreat of glaciers in the Rwenzori mountains in Central Africa.
Sella died in Biella in 1943. His collection of photographs is now managed by the Sella Foundation (Fondazione Sella) in Biella. Some pictures of Sella are exhibited in the Museo Nazionale della Montagna "Duca degli Abruzzi"in Turin. [ From Wikipedia }

Some of Sella's photographs are below: 
Siniolchu and Little Siniolchu from the Zemu Valley 1899

Muztagh Towers Karakoram

Siniolchu Zemu Valley 1899

Camp Zemu Valley 1899

Glacier near Mont Blanc

Chardon Glacier 1888

In the words of Ansel Adams “Knowing the physical pressures of time and energy attendant on ambitious mountain expeditions, we are amazed by the mood of calmness and perfection pervading all of Sella’s photographs. In Sella’s photographs there is no faked grandeur; rather there is understatement, caution, and truthful purpose… Sella has brought to us not only the facts and forms of far-off splendours of the world, but the essence of experience which finds a spiritual response in the inner recesses of our mind and heart.”

Useful Links:

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Manaslu Magic | Black and White

September 3, 2017, 3:30 pm
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View from Samagaon monastery looking south 
 The circuit of Manaslu the eight highest mountain in the world now qualifies as one of the finest treks in the Nepal Himalaya. A team from South Col Expeditions trekked the Manaslu circuit in April 2017. This is a monochrome look at the circuit.

Manaslu from Samagaon

On the trail to Manaslu Base Camp from Samagaon

The Budhi Gandaki river near Dovan

Campsite at Deng

Birendra Tal lake

Tree near Samagaon

Peak 29 from the village of Sho

For more information on the Manaslu circuit, routes and timings please see the links below.

Useful Links
http://sujoyrdas.blogspot.in/2017/07/manaslu-circuit-part-i-route-and-timings.html

http://sujoyrdas.blogspot.in/2017/07/manaslu-circuit-part-ii-route-and.html

http://www.sujoydas.com/Nepal-Himalaya/The-Manaslu-Circuit-Trek/

https://www.outlookindia.com/outlooktraveller/destinations/bistare-bistare-around-manaslu/
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Orchids | Singapore Changi Airport

September 11, 2017, 7:00 pm
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The Singapore  Orchid Garden  at Changi Airport Terminal 2 features more than 700 orchids of 30 species grouped by their various colours and shapes, representing the 4 elements of nature – Earth, Water, Fire and Air. White orchids displayed with floating glass bubbles represent 'Air', while rare brown and green orchids displayed with tree root sculptures represent 'Earth'.  Floral columns simulating giant candles represent 'Fire' while clustered blue and violet orchids represent the 'Water' element.

Some photographs of the stunning orchids in bloom:








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Puppet Theatre of Indonesia

September 20, 2017, 11:41 pm
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Wayang (Krama Javanese: Ringgit ꦫꦶꦁꦒꦶꦠ꧀, "Shadow"), also known as Wajang, is a form of puppet theatre art found in Indonesia and other parts of Southeast Asia, wherein a dramatic story is told through shadows thrown by puppets and sometimes combined with human characters. The art form celebrates the Indonesian culture and artistic talent, its origins are traced to medieval era spread of Hinduism and the arrival of leather-based puppet arts called Tholu bommalata from southern India.

Wayang refers to the entire dramatic show. Sometimes the leather puppet itself is referred to as wayang. Performances of shadow puppet theatre are accompanied by a gamelan orchestra in Java, and by gender wayang in Bali. The dramatic stories play out mythologies, such as episodes from the Hindu epics the Ramayana, the Mahabharata as well as local adapations of cultural legends.Traditionally, a wayang is played out in a ritualized midnight to dawn show by a dalang – an artist and spiritual leader, and people watch the show from both sides of the screen.

UNESCO designated wayang kulit, a shadow puppet theatre and the best known of the Indonesian wayang, as a Masterpiece of Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity on 7 November 2003. In return for the acknowledgment, UNESCO required Indonesians to preserve their heritage. Wayang has also been a significant historical art form in Malaysia, Thailand, Cambodia and Laos.
 From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Some photographs  of puppets and puppet making are below:






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Moods of Tso Moriri

September 27, 2017, 7:00 pm
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Tso Moriri or Lake Moriri (Tibetan: ལྷ་མོའི་བླ་མཚོ, Wylie: lha mo bla mtsho) or "Mountain Lake", is a lake in the Ladakhi part of the Changthang Plateau (literally: northern plains) in Jammu and Kashmir in northern India. The lake and surrounding area are protected as the Tso Moriri Wetland Conservation Reserve.
The lake is at an altitude of 4,522 m (14,836 ft). It is the largest of the high altitude lakes entirely within India and entirely within Ladakh in this Trans-Himalayan biogeographic region. It is about 16 miles (26 km) north to south in length and two to three miles (3 to 5 km) wide. The lake has no outlet at present and the water is brackish though not very perceptible to taste.
The lake is fed by springs and snow-melt from neighboring mountains. Most water enters the lake in two major stream systems, one entering the lake from the north, the other from the southwest. Both stream systems include extensive marshes where they enter the lake. It formerly had an outlet to the south, but this has become blocked and the lake has become a endorheic lake. The lake is oligotrophic in nature, and its waters are alkaline.
Accessibility to the lake is largely limited to summer season, though Karzok on the northwest shore and the military facilities on the eastern shores have year-round habitation.
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Some photographs from my visits to Tso Moriri over the years including a visit in September 2017






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Bhutan | Photographs from the Land of Happiness

October 5, 2017, 5:30 pm
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Prayer wheels at Chimi Lakhang near Punakha
I was recently in Bhutan for a week doing some planning and reconnaisance for a South Col trek in the spring of 2018. I travelled in the valleys of Paro, Thimpu and Punakha. Here are some photographs from this beautiful country.

Taktshang  Tigers Nest Monastery

Prayer wheels made out of bottles Tigers Nest in the background

Close up of a prayer wheel

Students working on wood carving at the Zoric Chisum Institute Thimpu

Punakha Dzong in the late afternoon

Doorway at Punakha Dzong

Chortens at the Dochu La pass

A woman leaves the butter lamp room at the Changangkha Lakhang in Thimpu

Dechen Phodrang interior Thimpu

Entrance to a restaurant Paro

Paro valley in the autumn with paddy ready for harvesting

Drying red chillies in a Paro street

Paro Dzong and the National Museum (on top) at night

Bonde Lakhang outside Paro

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Bhutan | Hotels - Some Recommendations

October 14, 2017, 7:30 pm
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Tenzinling Resort at dusk
On a recent visit to Bhutan I stayed at some very nice boutique properties in Paro, Thimpu and Punakha. I am reviewing these hotels below as this would be useful for visitors to Bhutan.

Tenzinling Resort, Paro
Located about six km away from Paro town up on a hill the Tenzinling is a stylish resort with large spotless rooms, wooden flooring and modern bathrooms. Most of the rooms have a small balcony as a sit-out with views overlooking the valley. Breakfast is usually included in the tariff and is a fairly extensive buffet. There is a bar as well. During our visit the wifi was working only in the reception and lobby areas but not in the rooms. However, this is likely to be resolved soon. Recommended.
Tariff - Nu 4000 with breakfast plus taxes  for a double room Tel: +975 8 272503 www.tenzinling.com
Tenzinling Resort
Kisa Villa Thimpu
This is one of the finest small boutique hotels that I have stayed in. Having only fifteen rooms in two small buildings, it has a lovely small garden overlooking the Thimpu Dzong which when lit up at night presents a fairly tale view. The double rooms are large some with a small kitchen unit with refrigerator and microwave, toaster, and electric kettle. The bathrooms are large and perfectly well equipped. Wifi works perfectly both in the lobby area and in the rooms. The small restaurant has a surprisingly well equipped menu with excellent Chinese food. Highly recommended.
Tariff - Nu 5,500 including breakfast for a double room plus taxes. +975 2 338811/22 and +975 17115580. kisavilla01@gmail.com

Lobby Kisa Villa


View of Thimpu Dzong from Kisa Villa garden
Meri Puensum  Punakha
This hotel set up in 1999 is one of the oldest establishments in Punakha. Situated above the river about 6 km from the Punakha Dzong it has rooms in cottages located on the hillside. Punakha has a semi tropical climate with an altitude of only 1275 metres so the garden has tropical bougainvillea, hibiscus, poinsettia and other tropical plants. The rooms have fans and the bathrooms though small are equipped with bathtubs.
Nu 4,000 plus taxes without breakfast; www.meripuensum.com.bt ; Tel: +975 2 584195.

The main building of Meri Puensum 

The rooms are in separate units around the main building 

Terraced paddy fields near Punakha
 Hotel Olathang, Paro
This is one of the oldest hotels in Paro built in 1974 to accommodate guests at the time of the coronation of the 4th King. It is built in a grand dzong style with corridors and rooms around a central courtyard. There are also separate cottages on the expansive grounds for families and couples. The rooms are well appointed and have definitely been refurbished - the downside is that the rooms in the main hotel tend to be a little dark which is accentuated by the dark colours used on the walls and the ceilings.
Tariff: Nu 4,500  to 6,000 per night depending on the rooms/cottages plus taxes; hotelolathang@gmail.com; Tel: +975 8 271304/271305 www.bhutanhotels.com.bt
Olathang garden 
For more photographs from Bhutan please do visit
http://sujoyrdas.blogspot.in/2017/10/bhutan-photographs-from-land-of.html

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Annapurna Foothills Trek December 23-30 217

October 22, 2017, 6:30 pm
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The Annapurna foothills provide tremendous trekking with delightful trails connecting villages and ridge tops. This picturesque trek winds through enchanting villages with ochre thatched houses, terraced rice fields and rhododendron forests, which are spectacular in the spring when whole hillsides are cloaked in colourful flowers. The ridge top village of Ghandrung provides one of the finest viewpoints of the Annapurna Mountains with magnificent views of the four Annapurnas, and Machapuchare with its fishtail summit. It is a  good walk to the top of Poon Hill 3150 metres with a dress circle view over the Annapurnas and Dhaulagiri as well. 
Who should do this trek?

  • Suitability: A good choice for most  walkers, reasonable level of fitness required.
  • Walking times: average 5 to 7 hours walking per day 
  • Altitude: up to 3150m
  • Terrain: for most of time following well-travelled trails, there will be daily ascent and descent on steps which are part of any Nepal trek.
  •  Remoteness: usually not too remote and often there is a reasonable level of infrastructure such as lodge accommodation and cell/ mobile phone reception and wifi reception every day at the lodges.

Trek Leader: Sujoy Das




ITINERARY
Day 01   Kathmandu to Pokhara  by early morning flight and the drive to Kande and trek to Tolka  
We fly into to Pokhara 30 min and then drive for 75 min to Kande.   From Kande we climb to Austrian camp in around two hours and then walk to Pothana in half an hour for lunchh. . From Pothana the trail climbs uphill to Deorali from where it makes a steep descent to Bichok. From Bichok it is a level walk to Tolka where we stop for the night.  
Day 02 Trek to Ghandrung  (1950 metres) 5-6 hours walking 
The large village of Ghandrung can be seen directly across the valley from Landrung.  It is a n hours walk in the morning from Tolka to Landrung. This is a short walking day allowing time to explore Landrung and Ghandrung. From Landrung we descend to the Modi Khola River and cross on a large suspension bridge. The ascent through terraced fields to the picturesque town takes around 2 hours. Ghandrung is largely a Gurung town and is the headquarters of the Annapurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP). Many of the lodges here have the more environmentally friendly features that ACAP encourages such as back boilers, solar panels, etc.  The views of the Annapurna Mountains and Machapuchare from here are stunning.
Day 03 Trek to Tadapani (2595 metres) 4 hours walking 
From Ghandrung the trail climbs gently to the village of Baisi Kharka where we stop for a cup of tea and then make the final ascent to Tadapani. Overnight at a lodge in Tadapani. The views of the Annapurna Mountains and Machapuchare from here are stunningly close.  
Day 04 Trek to Ghorepani  (2750 metres) 6-7 hours walking 
The trek from Tadapani to Ghorepani involves a number of ups and downs! We pass through the villages of Banthanti and Deorali before reaching Ghorepani. Overnight at a lodge at Ghorepani.  
Day 05  Ghorepani to Tirekedhunga/Hille  (1515m) -5 to 6  hours walking We visit Poon Hill at sunrise to watch the views over Annapurna and Dhaulagiri. After breakfast we begin our walk down to Ulleri (1960m)  We stop for lunch at Ulleri and then start descending the 3000 steps to Tirkedhunga ( take it easy!). Night at Tirkedhunga or the neighbouring village Hille.






Day 06   Tirekedhunga/Hille to Birethanti to Pokhara to Kathmandu (885 metres)  2.5 hours  walking 
We leave early for Birethanti around 7 am. We gte there by 9 am and then cross the river to Nayapul. We drive from Nayapul to Pokhara 90 min and are in Pokhara for lunch. After an early lunch we go to the airport and board the afternoon 3 pm flight to Kathmandu. Night at a hotel in Kathmandu. 
Day 07   Kathmandu to home destination by flight 



COSTS
 The cost of this trek is  USD 900 for foreign passports and INR Rs 46,500  for Indian  citizens. Meals not included. Please budget an additional US $ 200-250 for meals, battery charging in lodges, wifi charges, hot water in flasks etc.  Exclusions apply. 
  • Costs include:
  • Two internal flights Kathmandu to Pokhara return. 
  • Micro bus from Kathmandu to Pokhara
  • ACAP national park permit and TIMS permit for trekking in the Annapurna region
  • Travel from Pokhara to start of trek and back
  • One  night accomodation at Pokhara (Hotel Gurkha Haven) and   two nights  accomodation in Kathmandu on the way in and out  on twin sharing basis
  • All accommodation on the trek on twin sharing basis
  • Cost of porters/guides for the trek. Please note that porters will carry one duffel bag or backpack not exceeding 10 kgs in weight for each trekker comprising of personal items, clothing, sleeping bag etc.
  • Please budget an extra USD 25 per day for meals not included in the cost above
Costs not included:
  • Meals in Kathmandu and Pokhara and fooding on the trek is not included
  • Airport taxes at Kathmandu and Pokhara airports in case of flights
  • Desserts, drinks, and exotic items listed in the lodge menus are not included.
  • Alcohol, cold drinks (coca cola, sprite, beer), juices, ice cream etc on the trek and in Pokhara.
  • Client travel and medical insurance of any kind.
  • Emergency evacuation costs if needed.
  • Video camera fees in National Parks (where applicable).
  • Bottled drinks; boiled, filtered or bottled water; alcohol; snacks; tea/coffee;
  • Hot showers (Rs 200-300 per shower);
  • Personal clothing and equipment; sleeping bag; douvet/down/goretek jacket, medicines for personal use etc.
  • Air fare from home country to Nepal and back
  • Tips to porters/guides at the end of trek estimate at US $ 50 per person
For more details email sujoyrdas@gmail.com or call +919831054569.

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Bhutan | Arrival and Departure Formalities for Indian Citizens

October 30, 2017, 6:30 pm
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Paro airport
I visited Bhutan recently flying into Paro airport from Kolkata and I have been asked a lot of questions regarding entry formalities into Bhutan for Indians and whether any visa or permits are required.  Firstly no visa is required for Indians.

I am giving the current procedures below.

There is an arrival form which is usually given to you on the flight which you should fill up and keep with your passport.
On arrival in Paro airport you walk from the aircraft to the arrival building greeted by this photograph of the Royal Family


On entering the arrival hall there is separate line for SAARC passports - please join this line.



Present the arrival form and your passport at the counter. You may be asked where you are staying so have the hotel information ready. It was earlier reported that the hotel confirmation voucher was required at immigration but I did not find  the Immigration Officer asking for this.

After completing immigration which takes only a few minutes, if there is no long line, proceed to collect your baggage which is just behind the immigration area. Paro is a small airport so everything is easy and close by. You will see a sign prohibiting the use of Rs 500 Indian currency and above



After collecting your bags proceed through the green channel if you have nothing to declare and your departure form will be collected by customs at the exit. There is also an x-ray at the exit for baggage but all bags are not x-rayed only some of them at the discretion of the officials.

You are then out of the airport in the beautiful Paro valley! Enjoy your stay!

On leaving Paro, you will need to x-ray your bags at the entrance of the airport and then proceed with your ticket and passport to the check in counter. You need to fill up a departure form below:



Present this departure form and your passport to the immigration - it takes only a minute to get the passport stamped and you are through the the boarding lounge which has free wifi for you to browse while you wait for your flight.

Enjoy Bhutan - it's a beautiful country!

For information on some of the hotels where we stayed in Bhutan do visit
http://sujoyrdas.blogspot.in/2017/10/bhutan-hotels-some-recommendations.html
For photographs of Bhutan do visit
http://www.sujoydas.com/Bhutan-Himalaya
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Raghubir Singh - A Retrospective The Met Breur New York October 11 2017-Jan 2 2018

November 7, 2017, 5:04 pm
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Raghubir Singh was undoubtedly one of the greatest colour photographers of his generation. He produced  around fourteen books -  all of them on India - the country where he spent the major part of his life. He was only 56 when he passed away in a massive heart attack in New York in 1999 - at the peak of his career. The Metropolitan Museum of Art New York is showing a collection of 85 photographs from his collection titled  Modernism on the Ganges.

The exhibition shows Raghubir's work right from the sixties to the early nineties including some unpublished photographs from his collection.

Some of the great photographs which are on display are reproduced below. All photographs in this post are copyright © Succession Raghubir Singh .









Useful Links

https://www.metmuseum.org/exhibitions/listings/2017/raghubir-singh-photographs

https://www.telegraphindia.com/1100523/jsp/calcutta/story_12475805.jsp

http://www.sujoydas.com/SujoyDas/Raghubir-Singh-1

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raghubir_Singh_(photographer)

https://qz.com/510911/the-pioneering-photographer-who-influences-almost-every-indian-instagram-user/

http://edition.cnn.com/style/article/raghubir-singh-met-breuer/index.html

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Banff Mountain Book Festival Winners 2017

November 15, 2017, 4:00 pm
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Grand Prize$4000 - Sponsored by Alpine Club of Canada
The ClimbersJim Herrington, Mountaineers Books (USA, 2017)
"Representing the fruits of a twenty-year photographic quest, Jim Herrington's stunning black and white portraits of climbing luminaries of the mid-20th century confer a quiet dignity on their aging subjects.  He has somehow managed to capture in their eyes the visionary zeal of their youthful climbs.  The photographer's tone might be summarized in a single word: respect, and you can't help feel that in the best of these shots something like the climber's soul has been revealed."
David Stevenson, 2017 Book Competition Jury

Adventure Travel$2000 - Sponsored by Fjällräven
The Names of the Stars
Pete Fromm, St. Martin's Press (USA, 2016)
"A deep meditation resulting from a month in the Montana wilderness, The Names of the Stars conveys the calm that solitary time grants us.  Pete Fromm uses his isolation in a Forest Service cabin, with a daily routine of walking a ten mile loop to monitor hatching fish eggs, to share his thoughts.  How does his life as a married father of two compare to his youthful discovery of his love of wild places?  Surrounded by ever-present wildlife, how could he share his passion with his sons?  With delightfully straightforward prose, the author portrays his small corner of the natural world.  Through repetition and carefully observed detail we share in the experience of a life well considered.  Neither of Mr. Fromm's sons were lucky enough to share his cabin, but through this wonderful manuscript both we, and they, go along for the journey."
- Ian Welsted, 2017 Book Competition Jury
Mountain Fiction & Poetry$2000 - Sponsored by Deuter
Rising Abruptly: Stories
Gisèle Villeneuve, University of Alberta Press (CAN, 2016)
"The narrator of 'Assiniboine Crossing', one of the seven stories collected here, observes: "Even the unassuming day trips deliver their moments."  The stories, too are unassuming, quiet even.  The worlds they portray are at once familiar and fresh: we know them but have never quite viewed them through Villeneuve's lens.  And, "the moments"?  The author delivers them: glinting shards of glass scattered throughout her fields."
David Stevenson, 2017 Book Competition Jury
Mountain Literature (Non Fiction) The Jon Whyte Award$2000 - Sponsored by The Whyte Museum of the Canadian Rockies
Art of Freedom: The Life and Climbs of Voytek Kurtyka
Bernadette McDonald, Rocky Mountain Books (CAN, 2017)
"Art of Freedom beautifully portrays the life, values, and ascents of one of the most incredible mountaineers in history.  McDonald seamlessly interweaves gripping accounts of Voytek's minimalistic climbing expeditions, with his thoughtful approach and almost poetic philosophies on life, in a way which gives the reader deep insights into who this man is."
Mayan Smith-Gobat, 2017 Book Competition Jury
Mountain Environment and Natural History$2000 - Sponsored by Backroad Mapbooks
Tracking Gobi Grizzlies
Douglas Chadwick, Patagonia Books (USA, 2016)
"Over five years Douglas Chadwick and a dedicated crew tracked these rarest of bears, the Gobi grizzlies, through the harshest Mongolian landscapes.  He returned with this hard-earned testament, evidence that he has remained faithful to his self-imposed directive: 'Keep working to fix what's broken'.  Both survival story and cautionary tale, Chadwick provides a sliver of hope, not only for the bears but for all of us."
David Stevenson, 2017 Book Competition Jury
Mountain Image$2000 - Sponsored by Lake O'Hara Lodge
Racconto D'Inverno - Eine Wintererzählung
Albert Ceolan (ITA, 2016)
"Stunning and beautifully laid out images which flow seamlessly into each other, taking the reader on a journey through the different aspects of winter...from quite untouched beauty, to quirky, humorous ice formations.  A work of art which has already found a permanent place on my coffee table!"
Mayan Smith-Gobat, 2017 Book Competition Jury
Guidebook$2000 - Sponsored by the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides
Chasing the Ephemeral: 50 Routes for a Successful Scottish Winter
Simon Richardson, Mica Publishing (UK, 2016)
"Heard that Scotland is the birthplace of mixed climbing, the last bastion of naturally protected dry-tooling, a challenge to even the best world-travelling masters?  Considered a visit but scared off by the notoriously fickle routes and the abysmal weather?  Quintessential local (though, truth be told, an Englishman), Simon Richardson has the solution.  Organized into conditions-dependent groupings, Chasing the Ephemeral will get you to 50 classic routes when they are 'in nick'.  Full of colour action photos, local lore, and essential beta, there is no excuse for missing out on one of the best winter climbing venues on the planet.  Just remember, the locals won't consider it a valid ascent if your photos aren't white, so shoot from the top down.  Here's to a Successful Scottish Winter."
Ian Welsted, 2017 Book Competition Jury
Mountaineering Article$2000 - Sponsored by the University of Alberta and the Alpine Club of Canada
Threshold Shift
Nick Bullock, Alpinist Magazine (USA, February 2017)
"A threshold shift is the ear's defense against loud noise; Nick Bullock's years of experience defend his mind from registering the mortal hazard he and his compatriots face, and all too commonly perish from, in the mountains.  Equally, a life climbing and writing has insulated Nick from the 'rush and push and strain...(and) disappointment' of a more traditional lifestyle.  Elevating moments from a first ascent in Nepal contrast with the difficult final journey Nick makes with his aging widower father.  In spite of a life spent in search of 'something better' through climbing he realizes he shares traits with the old men he swore he would never become.  Not a lighthearted tale, it addresses mortality with on honesty which must be admired.  Breathtakingly written, Threshold Shift is on a different frequency from what passes as climbing writing in today's social media feed."
Ian Welsted, 2017 Book Competition Jury
Mountaineering History$2000 - Sponsored by Sherpa Adventure Gear
The Climbers
Jim Herrington, Mountaineers Books (USA, 2017)
"Representing the fruits of a twenty-year photographic quest, Jim Herrington's stunning black and white portraits of climbing luminaries of the mid-20th century confer a quiet dignity on their aging subjects.  He has somehow managed to capture in their eyes the visionary zeal of their youthful climbs.  The photographer's tone might be summarized in a single word: respect, and you can't help feel that in the best of these shots something like the climber's soul has been revealed."
David Stevenson, 2017 Book Competition Jury
Special MentionThe Push: A Climber's Journey of Endurance, Risk, and Going Beyond Limits
Tommy Caldwell, Viking Books (USA, 2017)
"In The Push, Tommy Caldwell gives the reader an honest and heartfelf view into his life and what shaped him to become of the world's best climbers.  A riveting book, which I found hard to put down, will appeal to climbers and non-climbers alike."
Mayan Gobat-Smith, 2017 Book Competition Jury
For more information on the Banff Festival 2017 please do visit https://www.banffcentre.ca/2017-banff-mountain-book-competition-awards   
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The Himalayan | November 25th 2017 Kolkata

November 23, 2017, 5:00 pm
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OF HIMALAYAN CLIMBS ,TRAVELS & TECHNOLOGY –
A program hosted by ‘THE HIMALAYAN’ 25th November (Saturday) at the Gorky Sadan, 6pm.

THE HIMALAYAN’  was  conceived in 2017,  to attract  like-minded people in the promotion of the Himalaya through  lore and its  preservation, through Travel, Expeditions, Explorations, and Adventure, and support of its Nature, Ecology, Culture, as well as the  well-being of its people.

The primary inspiration has been a vision that encompasses the incorporation of a balanced, incisive as well as interactive dissemination platform for the reporting of Himalayan Activity–Of Climbing, Science, Literature and the yonder, in a manner befit to stimulate the Intellectual yearning of the erudite mountain lover, as well as to kindle the fertile mind of the incorrigibly romantic young mountaineer.

 ‘The Himalayan News’ is the flagship Newsletter that is being globally distributed. We, take great pleasure in providing to you novel features and reports on the latest happenings, viewpoints and insights by our Editorial team as well as renowned contributors, in an unfettered and unbiased metre and form. We further plan to organise regular & novel lectures by experienced speakers, hold seminars and exhibitions on Himalayan and allied matters, arrange expeditions into the high altitudes, and much more.

Mustang, formerly Kingdom of Lo, is a remote and isolated region of the Nepalese Himalaya. The Upper Mustang was a restricted demilitarised area until 1992 which makes it one of the most preserved regions in the world, with a majority of the population still speaking traditional Tibetan languages. Tibetan culture has been preserved by the relative isolation of the region from the outside world. Renowned photographer and veteran Himalayan  traveller Sri Sujoy Das will take  us on a journey through his lens of this rarely travelled area and much less seen by Kolkatans. His talk, ‘Mustang – A lost kingdom  would be followed by a presentation by AVM (Retd) Apurba Bhattacharyya , veteran mountaineer entitled ‘To the Top of Everest ‘ – 1856 to 2017’  - a rare presentation that would reflect how Everest mountaineering has evolved over the years in terms of Technology, Techniques and philosophy, since the beginning.

We solicit your presence to this program

Regards
Priyadarshi Gupta , President , THE HIMALAYAN
9830808958



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Mustang Nepal | The Trans Himalaya

December 1, 2017, 8:30 pm
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Cultivated fields of Chuksang

Mustang (from the Tibetan möntang (Wylie: smon-thang), Nepali: मुस्तांग Mustāṃg "fertile plain"), formerly Kingdom of Lo, is a remote and isolated region of the Nepalese Himalayas. The Upper Mustang was a restricted demilitarized area until 1992 which makes it one of the most preserved regions in the world, with a majority of the population still speaking traditional Tibetic languages. Tibetan culture has been preserved by the relative isolation of the region from the outside world.

The Upper Mustang comprise the northern two-thirds of Mustang District of Dhawalagiri Zone, Nepal. The southern third of the district is called Thak and is the homeland of the Thakali, who speak the Thakali language, and whose culture combines Tibetan and Nepalese elements. Life in Mustang revolves around tourism, animal husbandry and trade.

Mustang's status as a kingdom ended in 2008 when its suzerain Kingdom of Nepal became a republic. The influence of the outside world, especially China, is growing and contributing to rapid change in the lives of Mustang's people. from Wikipedia

Some images from Mustang are below:

Monastery Tsarang

Ploughing the fields outside Drakmar village

Entrance of Drakmar

Man made plantations Gheling

Pass of Mui La 4170 m on the road to Ghar Gompa

Village of Geling

North of Lo Manthang

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Yeti | The Myth is dismissed

December 11, 2017, 11:54 pm
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Edmund Hillary, one of the first two people to scale Mount Everest, and Khunjo Chumbi, a Nepali village elder, hold what was then thought to be the scalp of yeti, in Calcutta, India, on December 9, 1960. AP Photo

Study dismisses myth of the yeti with bear facts

Purported samples from wild man of the Himalayas are found to be from local bear population



Nearly every time Sujoy Das leads a trekking group in the Himalayas, he gets the question, asked half in jest, half in hope. Has he ever spotted signs of the yeti?

Mr Das guides treks on some of the mightiest Himalayan peaks — Everest, Annapurna, Gangapurna — and through the Nepali valleys that lie in between. This is the terrain where the myth of the yeti — or the Abominable Snowman — first arose, and where it still persists. A hirsute, apelike creature, taller than most human beings, the yeti and its legend grew out of old local tales about wild men living in the mountains.

European explorers seized upon the mystery and expanded it, reporting glimpses of the creature or finding outsize footprints in the snow. Every Everest expedition seemed to keep half an eye cocked for the yeti or its tracks; one British mountaineer took photos of footprints twice the size of the average adult human's foot.

The fascination has not died down. “In Nepal and in the Everest region, this question always comes up. Has anyone see a yeti?” Mr Das said, who lives in Kolkata and runs South Col Expeditions. "The local people say they have, but we don’t know if it is actually one. I always say: ‘No, I haven't seen one.’”

A new genetic study of nine purported yeti samples, however, may put the legend into deep freeze forever. The results, published last week in the journal Proceedings of the Royal Society B, suggested that eight of the samples were from a different sort of shaggy, wild creature: a bear. (The one remaining sample came from an even less elusive creature: a dog.)

Charlotte Lindqvist, an associate professor in the department of biological sciences at the University of Buffalo, New York, who led the study, called it “the most rigorous analysis to date” of relics of the so-called yeti.

Ms Lindqvist first became involved in the yeti myth in 2014, when other researchers contacted her to compare the genes in two purported yeti hair samples with those in a 120,000-year-old polar bear fossil she was working on.

“But the data was very limited, and it made me suspicious about the speculation that the yeti legend represented some strange, hybrid bear roaming the Himalaya mountains,” Ms Lindqvist said. “So I agreed to follow up on this study with a more rigorous approach based on more genetic data from more purported yeti samples.”

The samples came from everywhere: hair found in Tibet in the 1930s; a fragment of leg bone, coloured a toasted brown, recovered from a mountain cave; a tooth and a lump of petrified faeces, which had been carefully stored in an Italian museum devoted to the alpinist Reinhold Messner.

Mountaineers and explorers have hunted for the definitive yeti sample throughout the 20th century. In 1961, Edmund Hillary, one of the first two men to climb Everest, led an expedition to Nepal purely in quest of the yeti.

“He went to Khumjung, a monastery above Namche Bazaar [in Nepal], where a yeti scalp was preserved by the headman of the village,” Mr Das told The National. “Hillary got the headman’s permission to take the scalp, to get it tested.”

One of the villagers accompanied Hillary on his trip. “They thought: ‘Hillary is a foreigner. He doesn’t know what this is, or what the value of it is to them,’” he said. “So they did this world tour with the scalp, meeting anthropologists and so on. The net result: the experts said it was the scalp of a Tibetan blue bear.”

Others have also advanced the theory that the various bits of the yeti — footprints, hair, bone samples — came from a species of bear. In his new book yeti: The Ecology of a Mystery, the conservationist Daniel C Taylor, who has searched for signs of the yeti ever since he was a child growing up in India, concludes that the footprints most probably belong to an Asiatic black bear.

Ms Lindqvist and her team compared their nine samples with 15 others that were known to be from local bear populations. Previous research had hinted at an unknown type of bear, but eight of the nine yeti samples proved to belong conclusively to well-known types of black and brown bears.

An inkling of this ursine identity has existed all along. In 1921, the British explorer Charles Howard-Bury, having found footprints in the snow, was told by his Sherpa guides that they belonged to the “metoh-kangmi”, a wild creature living in the snows.

Later writers misinterpreted “metoh” as “filthy” and replaced it with the more elegant “Abominable”. But a knowledge of the Tibetan language would have provided the clue, for the words “metoh kangmi” translate to “man-bear of the snows”.

https://www.thenational.ae/world/asia/study-dismisses-myth-of-the-yeti-with-bear-facts-1.682529
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Everest Base Camp Trek | The Best Season ?

December 20, 2017, 8:59 pm
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I am often asked which is the best time to trek in the Everest region? Is it April and October? Interestingly things have changed a lot including the weather so this post covers the seasons and the pros and cons of trekking in the Everest region.


January 
This is peak winter -  temperatures at Gorak Shep (5150 metres) would be around -20C at night - water would be frozen but in all likelihood the weather would be clear but snow is on the cards. You need good warm down  jackets and a -20C sleeping bag to be comfortable. There will be few trekkers so you would have the lodges to yourself.

February
From mid February the weather would begins to warm up marginally but it can be uncertain - rain and hail lower down and snow above 4000 metres. Some days can also be sunny and exceptionally clear with low humidity. Few trekkers again so the lodges would be free. Not a bad time to go if you want to avoid the crowds and don't mind the occasional snow storm!

March 
The trekking numbers would increase by early March. Warmer weather would see possibility of occasional rain and snow. By end March the trekking season would have picked up and flights would start to become busy. If you want to go in spring then mid to end March is a good start.


April
This is considered to be the second best season after October. It is spring and the rhododendrons and other flowers are in bloom creating a spectacular display of colour. The mornings are generally clear with clouds rushing in by noon and rain and snow possible in the afternoons. The weather is of course much warmer than February- March. This month sees the maximum number of trekkers after October.
May
The numbers of trekkers start going down as the monsoon approaches. There can be regular pre-monsoon showers in May and mountains can be cloudy and foggy especially in late May. Flights to and from Kathmandu to Lukla also can be cancelled due to weather conditions. However, the floral spectacle especially above Namche is spectacular so if you want to see flowers this is the time to go!


June to September
These are the monsoon months. Flights to Lukla will often be delayed or cancelled due to rains and fog. Mountain views are few as the clouds dominate the valleys and peaks. On some days if you are lucky the sun will break through and you can see a peak floating through the clouds. There will be hardly any trekkers so no crowds. It's very green in the Khumbu at this time and flowers in the high meadows.

October
This is the peak season for the Everest trek. Flights are packed and so are the lodges. However for the last few years, it has been raining until mid October due to the delayed monsoon and the first two weeks have seen bad weather and many cancellations of the Lukla flight. I would avoid October if you can both for the weather issues and the crowds. Once the monsoon retreats you can be assured of clear skies and sunny warm days.

November
November in fact is the new October with clear days low humidity few clouds and mountain views every day - this  is the typical post monsoon weather which remains until mid December. It would be the first choice for Everest trekkers - the stability in the weather ensures that the Lukla flight can fly until 11 am on most days. Night temperatures at Gorak Shep would be between -10C and -12C,


December
It would be colder than November but until mid December the clear weather would continue. Crowds would be thinning as most people would be returning - flights would also not be so busy and tickets easy to get. Temperatures in Gorak Shep would be -15C at night. Recommended with a good down jacket and a four season sleeping bag!

For our fixed 2018 departure for the Everest trek in November 2018  do visit http://www.southcol.com/treks-nepal/everest-base-camp-ebc-kala-pattar-october-22nd-november-4th-2017/

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Annapurna Foothills Trek | The Photographs

January 2, 2018, 9:18 pm
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Approaching Landrung
South Col Expeditions completed another Annapurna Foothills Trek from December 23-30 2017 amidst speactacular winter weather with clear blue skies and warm sunshine. Some photographs from the trek are below:

Sunrise Ghorepani

The beautiful dining room of Gurung Cottage Ghandrung

Ferns in the forest near Tadapani

On the ridge between Deorali and Ghorepani with Dhaulagiri behind

Tadapani lodges with Annapurna South, Huinchuli and Machhapuchhare behind

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Nikon 180-400 Super Zoom with TC 1.4 Teleconverter

January 9, 2018, 6:05 am
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Nikon introduces a 180-400 F4 superzoom with 1.4 teleconverter built in at $12,399.95!

The press release from the Nikon USA site says it all:
"Pros who spend time behind a super-telephoto lens know a hard truth: when you need a teleconverter, you often need it in a hurry. For these moments, Nikon proudly introduces the AF-S NIKKOR 180-400mm f/4E TC1.4 FL ED VR, a super-telephoto zoom lens with a built-in 1.4X teleconverter. Capture sports, events and wildlife in lifelike brilliance from 180-400mm, then, without breaking shooting posture, engage the integrated teleconverter and increase your reach to 560mm f/5.6 (840mm equivalent on a DX body). Incorporating remarkable advancements in optical design, autofocus performance, Vibration Reduction and durability, this lens is bound to become the new standard for serious field photographers."

Features

  • Professional super-telephoto zoom with Nikon's first built-in selectable 1.4X teleconverter
  • Advanced optical design with 8 ED glass elements, a Fluorite element and Nano Crystal Coat produces unwavering image quality
  • Blazing fast subject acquisition and locked-on tracking, especially when used with Nikon's 153-point AF system
  • Lightweight, durable construction with advanced weather sealing, internal focus and Nikon's nonstick Fluorine coating
  • Next-generation Vibration Reduction (VR) system that starts immediately and includes three shooting modes
The immediate competition for this lens is the old workhorse 200-400 F4 used extensively by both wildlife and sports photographers and this will be the lens against which the new  180-400 will be compared. As prices go the older lens is around $6,996 street so there is a very significant difference between the two offerings.

We should wait for the test reviews of the new lens and it performance in the field.

In the meanwhile for more information do visit the following links:



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Himalayan Weather

January 18, 2018, 6:13 am
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Annapurna South, Huinchuli and Machhapuchhare from Dhampus
If you read any guide book on the Himalaya or on trekking in the Himalayan region, you will invariably be told that the post-monsoon season is the best time to trek in the mountains. Clear blue skies, superb mountain views, mild sunny days and crisp cold nights are all forecast for the trekker.  You will also be told that the pre monsoon season i.e. March to May is the second best time to be in the mountains with mild showers in the evening but clear morning and the weather getting warmer as you approach the monsoon. Further, according to the guide books, trekking in the monsoon is strictly a “no no” and if the heavy rains and landslides don’t make your trek a nightmare, the leeches will! And of course the winter is so cold that no sane individual would venture into the high altitude at that time!

So what is the real story on Himalayan weather?

The trail between Dingboche and Dugla, Everest region
I have trekked in the Himalayas in all seasons, including the winter (Everest 2003-04), the monsoon (Sikkim 2000) and numerous autumn and spring treks.

One October I remember visiting Kathmandu airport every morning for the flight to Lukla and returning to our hotel at lunchtime. It rained for three days incessantly and the Lukla flight could not take off. Finally on the fourth day it did take off  and made a hair raising landing at Lukla narrowly missing the hill in front of the airstrip. Surprisingly the very next day the weather cleared and we did not get any rain for the next two weeks during our trek.

Again, walking the Annapurna circuit in October I remember repeated day after day of afternoon rain up the Marsyandi valley. One downpour near the village of Chame was so heavy that we sheltered in a bamboo hut and managed to stay dry until the rain stopped.

In December 2009 I trekked with a South Col group to Poon Hill in the Annapurna region and surprisingly other than the morning at Ghorepani, the rest of the days had cold, cloudy weather very unusual for December.

Tso Moriri Ladakh

The rain shadow regions of the Himalaya like Ladakh, Zanskar, Lahoul and Spiti possibly get the best weather in the monsoon season July to September.

So in my opinion, good weather is a gamble. What with global warming, rapid deforestation and urbanization, the weather is no longer predictable. Every season has something special to offer so select your season and hope for some great views and weather!

For more information on our treks and photo workshops do visit www.southcol.com

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